On Our Way to Ghent

 

After a hearty breakfast this morning at our hotel (what did we do/eat last night?), which not only included assorted breads and jams as shown in this photo, but also sliced meats, fruits, vegetables, condiments (to make sandwiches, never my favorite in the mornings), we left Brussels at 8:30 on our favorite Heidebloem bus with driver, Dirk. (Our all-time favorite driver is Renee but we haven't seen him in a long time.)

 

On the way out of the city, we drove around the 1958 World's Fairgrounds in order to see the symbol of the event that year--a giant, silvery iron molecule, the Atomium. Escalators and stairs connect the various "atoms" so you're rewarded from the top sphere with views of the park complex and the Brussels' skyline, some of the best in the city. Or so we hear... We were only allowed off the bus to take some photos. We had a schedule, you know.

The drive to Ghent took about an hour; and when we arrived, Hilbren walked us around the town, weaving our way through a busy market (where we lost one of our couples), down quaint narrow streets, next to and along some little canals. He also swung us into the Cathedral of Saint-Bavo for a quick history lesson (separate post).



One of the biggest cities in Europe during the 14th century, Ghent had a population of around 65,000--massive in an age when most of Europe was rural farmland. North of the Alps, only Paris was larger. Two-thirds of the population was made up of textile workers, making medieval Ghent Europe's first industrial city and a powerhouse made very wealthy by the textile trade. But like its rival Bruges, Ghent's fortunes eventually fell, yet leaving it with a well-preserved historical nucleus. Instead of oozing with charm and cobbles like Bruges, it is now home to Belgium's largest university and is a living, thriving city. Today's population is around 240,000.

This Meat Hall (Groot Vleeshuis) sits in Vegetable Market Square. It has seen better days, but was built entirely without nails, employing ship-builders' expertise. For hygienic reasons, until the 19th century, this was the only place in town allowed to sell meat. Today, we still see locally-cured hams hanging from the rafters next to a restaurant and a shop selling specialty products. (It was also our bathroom stop in Ghent!)

Before meeting for a canal cruise, we were on our own for lunch. After retracing our steps, Sam and I ended up at the little stand recommended by Hilbren. He was already there when we arrived; and eventually, a few more of our group showed up.



For less than 5 euros, we enjoyed a sausage sprinkled with onions and stuffed with cheese; yummy well-made frites (fried the correct way, Hilbren explained--in two different vats of oil); and a soda. Again, following the tradition in this part of the world, Sam enjoyed hers with mayonnaise (versus catsup); I had tartar sauce this time--something different. We sat on a short concrete wall across from the stand, people-watched, and enjoyed our meal.

Now, it was off to a canal cruise, the first and only one on this trip.

Royal Museums of Fine Arts

 

After our morning with Christian on the historical walking tour and lunch, we headed to the Royal Museum of Fine Arts, a large complex also including the Museum of Ancient Art and the Magritte Museum. Fine art from the 1400s is presented here, with works by Pieter Bruegel, Rubens, Van Dyke, Hieronymus Bosch, and Rembrandt, to name a few.

 

In the museum's entry hall stands an imposing statue of Belgium's big-thinking king, Leopold II. His father, Leopold I, was put on the throne when Belgium was made an independent kingdom in 1830. But it was Leopold II who transformed the city and gave it grand institutions, like this museum.

We were divided into two groups and a very informed and animated docent, Jean-Philipe, led our group upstairs to the second level and the Flemish masters. This religious hanging from the early 1400s (made of wood?) was called "Scenes from the Life of the Virgin." The glossy colors are still so vivid--it almost looks like a three-dimensional carving on metal.

I really liked the colors of the gallery walls--for example, this red, which really brought out the colors in the paintings--and how the art was displayed. Some of the works are huge.

The painting I am photographing is Peter Paul Rubens' "The Adoration of the Magi," which he painted in the 17th century.



We spent a lot of time in front of a work by Dirk Bouts, "Penelen met de Gerechtigheid Van Keizer Otto," dated 1410. These two huge paintings show a story not illustrated elsewhere--of a king and queen and the killing of a man thought to be the queen's lover. Despite the queen's denial, she is also burned at the stake--an interpretation we could have never known without Jean-Philipe's description.

Sam and I also both loved the detail from the painting by Jan Verhas of these little girls. Painted in 1880, it is called "The School Review in 1878."



Unfortunately, time was short and we didn't get to everything nor go into the Magritte. I did, however, snap this silly "usie" while walking by the Magritte on our first day. After this busy day around Brussels, now I needed a coffee!

Manneken-Pis is Everywhere

Didn't I tell you? This little cutout was in the old Saint-Gery Market, which was built in 1881. The old brick, metal, and glass building is now used as a civic venue in the middle of a fun and lively Brussels' neighborhood called--Saint-Gery, of course.

Place du Petit Sablon



Sam and I really liked this little square. We ran across it on our first day while trying to stave off jet lag. Christian helped us fill in the blanks when he led the group here during our morning historical walk.

Place du Petit Sablon is a charming and quiet little park surrounded by 48 small statues standing atop the wrought-iron fence. That's what first catches your attention. They represent the craftsman guilds--weavers, brewers, and butchers--of 16th century Brussels.



The ten large statues inside the park represent hometown thinkers of the 16th century, a time of great intellectual accomplishments in the city. The one holding a globe is Gerardus Mercator (1512-1594), the Belgium mapmaker who devised a way to more accurately show the spherical Earth on a flat surface.

The garden's central fountain, an example of 19th century Romanticism, honors two locals who were executed because they promoted tolerance during the Inquisition. Good friends, one Catholic and the other Protestant, they were beheaded on the Grand Place in 1568 for their actions.

Historic Brussels

This morning at 9:00 AM, while walking to meet our local guide, Christian, we made a quick stop in St. Michael's Cathedral (see separate post).

Christian was a Brussels' historical expert and either was a retired professor and/or statesman--neither which Sam and I can remember. He walked us to the Upper Town, past the place Royale, the Palais Royale, through the Parc de Bruxelles, into the Place du Petit Sablon, by the Palais de Justice, near a rare-surviving section of Brussels' medieval city wall (which enclosed one of Europe's great cities in the 13th century), ending up at the corner on which Manneken-Pis pees.

Frankly, I remember little about which he pontificated, which is too bad.



We had a break before our afternoon tour and, with some of our tour buddies, ate at the café atop the Museum of Musical Instruments, which Hilbren recommended. Called MIM for short, one of Europe's best music museums, it is housed in an impressive Art Nouveau building, the beautifully renovated Old England department store.

Inside, there are more than 1,500 instruments--from Egyptian harps, to medieval lutes, to groundbreaking harpsichords, to the Brussels-built saxophone. With the audioguide, as you approach an instrument, you hear it playing on your headphones. Too bad we didn't have time to tour it--I hear it's very interesting.

Now, we were on our way to the Royal Museums of Fine Arts (separate post), after which I was ready for a coffee! There was going to be another beer tasting that evening but Sam and I skipped that and did some window shopping. I don't even remember if we ate that night or just crashed in the room.

Cathedralis Bruxellensis SS. Michaelis et Gudulae



 

St. Michael's Cathedral is one of Europe's classic Gothic churches, built between 1200 and 1500. This cathedral, where royal funerals and weddings take place, is made from white stone and topped by twin towers. It has been the most important church in this country for nearly 1,000 years.

 

Around 80% of Belgium citizens are Catholic, but only about 20% of them attend mass. Most of the Dutch people are Protestant.

Although the white nave seems stark upon entering, there are beautiful stained glass windows and impressive statues. A marvelous carved pulpit has Adam and Eve supporting the priest while St. Michael stabs a serpent above.

I loved the beautiful gold statue of Gudulae (there was a corresponding one of St. Michael--both standing in front of the altar). Devoted to God, she spent her young life in prayer and helping the poor with handouts.

I didn't take a photo but when leaving the cathedral, the view of Brussels' old town from the outer porch is impressive.

The Royal Saint-Hubert Galleries

We walked by and through these beautiful galleries not far from our hotel on various occasions during our stay in Brussels.

Designed as a connection between two commercial areas near the Grand Place, these covered galleries were one of the first of their size constructed in Europe.



Built in the Italian Renaissance style, the monumental structure bears witness to the prowess and innovations of steel and glass architecture. It was inaugurated in 1847 and the galleries designed in 1838 by J. P. Cluysenaar to include shops, as well as housing, and two theatres.

On our way home from the group dinner this evening, we strolled through here again... peeking into all the colorful shop windows. And avoiding all the temptations. There will be plenty of time for "winkling."

Group Introduction Dinner

We met Hilbren and our new tour "buddies" in the lobby at 4:00 PM and walked to a pub, La Becasse, to have an introductory meeting and enjoy some Belgium Lambic beers. One of the oldest in Brussels, the pub turned 100 years old in 1977 and the grandfather of the current owners was born in the corner of the upstairs room (where we met).

Although Hilbren was born in the US, he was raised in Brussels and speaks French, Dutch, and English, of course. He is a newlywed and his wife is French (we met her in Bruges). After Hilbren's overview of the tour and information about the beer-tastings, we went around the room and introduced ourselves. Most of us made notes on our rosters next to each person's names so MAYBE we'd remember something about each other the next day.



Believe it or not, Sam and I actually enjoyed the Lambic, which tasted more like a carbonated soda than beer to us. Proost (or "Cheers" in Dutch)!

After a walk through the city center, introducing us to some useful city landmarks to get our bearings, we ate our first group dinner at Aux Armes de Bruxelles.

I enjoyed poached salmon with béarnaise sauce; the other choice was Belgian Waterzooi (which is a chicken breast sitting in a vegetable stew).

We finished up with a very delicious and intense chocolate mousse (which was probably why I didn't sleep that night!).

 

Whoops! I forgot to take a photo before I dug in. Chocolate, you know... I couldn't wait!

Brussels' Famous Boy

Manneken-Pis is the symbol of Brussels. A few blocks from the Grand Place, this very small (under two feet) bronze statue of a peeing boy is tucked into a corner. You could almost miss seeing him if it weren't for the crowd of people gathering in the street and getting their photos taken with him.

The birth of Manneken-Pis is said to date back to the 8th century when a visiting bishop was asked to stay in the home of a Brussels lord who did not have an heir. The legend goes that after the bishop promised to intercede with God on his behalf, a child was born nine months later--one whose first act was to pee so high that he splashed the bishop's beard. When the lord ran away with the lady who conducted the baby's baptism (leaving his wife), the bishop declared his punishment: "Your only son will grow no bigger and never stop peeing."



That's just one legend about the peeing boy. Believe it or not, there are five additional legends throughout the centuries which tell other stories of his existence! The current statue was made in 1619 to provide drinking water for the neighborhood. In fact, at that time, because Manneken-Pis was knighted by the occupying French king, Louis XV, French soldiers had to salute the continually-pissing child every time they passed.

Although he was naked when Sam and I accidently stumbled by his location on the first day, it is a tradition for visiting VIPS to bring the statue an outfit. Also, he often dresses up in a costume for special occasions. A room in the City Museum contains many of his 800+ outfits--for example, those of a cosmonaut, a sultan, a musketeer, an Elvis Presley impersonator, various military uniforms, etc., etc..

And of course, there are all sorts of "takes" and souvenirs in Brussels depicting the famous little boy.

Long story short, Manneken-Pis has always been--and still is--a fountain, even if the monument which visitors admire today no longer fulfills the role it once had in Brussels' former water distribution system.

Despite all the legends behind the reasons for the little boy, in the end, the city commissioned it to show the freedom and joie de vivre of living in Brussels--where happy people eat, drink...and drink...and then, of course, pee. However, I noticed on the day we took his photos, he wasn't!?

Belgium Food

After leaving the City Museum on the Grand Place, we walked as long--and as far--as we could on our arrival day. Here's Sam resting as we made our way on the climb to the Upper Town.

Since Sam must eat "three times a day and have MEAT for supper," we stopped to eat (again) on the way back to the hotel. I had roast chicken with fries but Sam tried the traditional Belgium carbonnade, a rick beef stew flavored with onions, beer, and mustard. I wasn't crazy about it but I think she liked it.

And then we finally fell into bed by early evening. The problem--we didn't set our alarms for Wednesday, the 28th. After our typical awake-in-the-middle-of-the-night multiple times, I finally woke up at 11:30 AM and Sam at 12:50 PM! We couldn't believe it. And of course, that really shortened the time we had to explore before we met the tour group at 4:00 PM.



Sooo, we might as well eat (AGAIN!) at the corner café. How about some hearty sandwiches for a combination of breakfast and lunch? That's St. Michael's Cathedral in the background.



We didn't have mussels on this trip but they're everywhere in Belgium. I really like them but the servings tend to be huge and expensive and I can't eat them all.

The fries, however, never get old; they're called frites here. They are usually served with mayonnaise--which Sam loves--but I can do with a little less of that. I wasn't quick enough taking this photo! (Frankly, they're too messy for me.)



Oh, and the waffles! As you can see, you can get them with many different toppings--and then all the whipped cream and chocolate you can stand. Only one euro in most "to-go" places. Yes, we did...

And an iced latte, of course, at the deli a few doors from our hotel. At least we were well-rested as we headed back to the hotel to get ready for meeting our tour buddies.